![]() ![]() neutralizing and eliminating odor in clothes.remove a wide variety of stains from clothing, including coffee, blood and grease.Softens water by binding to the minerals in the water, allowing the detergents to lift dirt from fabric.It inhibits the growth of fungi, mold, mildew and bacteria. an effective stain remover for food and grease stains. helps adjust the pH levels of the wash. my laundry detergent is borax and washing soda with 1-2 teaspoons regular clear no scent liquid laundry detergent I use 1/4 the amount of laundry detergent recommended Thirty plus years later the adage I heard once holds true, “Take care of your gear and it’ll take care of you.” I’ve got, for instance, $1000 of ski gear in the washer that I need to keep me warm, dry and preferably not smelly that I will use for years and don’t care to replace frequently so which will it be? Regular detergent with all manner of additives that is ineffective and perhaps damaging or the right product that maintains a significant investment. Regular detergents/bleach/bleach alternatives and heaven forbid fabric softener will either ruin or at the very least damage and/or limit effectiveness of these types of fabrics as well as not actually get them clean. I use Nathan Power Wash for the lesser stuff such as workout clothes/base layers/SPF shirts. I use the appropriate Nikwax product for the “good stuff” IE expensive outdoor/ski/athletic items since Nikwax is not inexpensive itself. Special detergents definitely the way to go for technical fabrics. Other washers are low-tech enough that the user can just start and stop the cycle manually on their own, and just keep a vigilant monitoring of it all. Also, some washers can be programmed to agitate for a short time every hour during a long soak. Don't stuff the washer, let it all be kinda loose. Add two rinse cycles to that, or even just drain it and start a full cycle with clean water only (no new soap), and you'll have super fresh duds at the end.Īll that to say: there will be a funky smell, but we'll be using plenty of water and soap to negate it all. With the laundry, when we start the washer the next day, all the agitation it goes through is entirely productive, there's no "getting started", and it's very effective at getting everything out. The oils that get released with a long soak will cancel out much of the seemingly excess soap it started with, just like we saw with the Dawn in the pan: when the balance is in our favor, the water is not greasy, yet also not overly soapy. In the case of laundry, specifically with the soak cycle conducted inside the washer overnight, we use extra soap to combat the funk to which you're referring. If you get at least a few bubbles, then you're at least close enough that it can now go in the sink and be washed like all other dishes. If you give it fresh water and more Dawn, literally a larger-rinse-repeat, you should get the rest just fine. If you can't make any bubbles at all, really none, you didn't use enough soap. Once you've gotten as much grease as you think can be gotten, try and make some suds/soap bubbles in the pan using the dirty grease water it already has. ![]() Use your hands so you can really feel the grease coming off. Work the Dawn into the grease gently by hand, and you'll notice it comes off better if you use even more Dawn. Give it only a handful of water, and at least a tablespoon of Dawn detergent to start. Next time you cook something greasy, wash the cooking pan/pot/whatever separately. It's the same notion as using enough dish soap to maintain heavy sudsing, as opposed to not enough soap which can be discerned by lack of sudsing.
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